Short jackets like this were non-regulation, but immensely popular and widely worn. This one has a conventional nine-button front with three smaller buttons on the non-functional cuffs, and is trimmed on the collar, lapel, waist, and across the cuffs with black tape or flat braid. It also has a great set of Smith patent false embroidered double-border captain of cavalry shoulder straps, though one could argue that the doubled-bars simply imitate the extra-rich borders and are actually first lieutenant.

The blue wool exterior has great color, showing minimal wear or moth damage, with just a few moth tracks, some wear to the buttonholes from fastening and unfastening the buttons, and to the edge of the cuffs where they would rub the wearer’s wrists. It is lined in black silk, oxidizing slightly toward green, quilted in the chest and sides, and fitted with two interior breast pockets. The sleeve lining are plain white fabric now showing as an off-white or cream color. Like the exterior, the interior is excellent, with no open seams or holes.

The shoulder straps are great, with nice lemon-yellow wool centers and gilt brass false embroidered rank bars and borders imitating a double row of bullion embroidery. The brass shows largely as bright with just a few spots of rubbing or oxidation. The yellow color is strong.

The buttons, large and small, are U.S. staff buttons, indicating the officer, while still cavalry, was doing some staff duty. If we read the straps a first lieutenant, this may have been on the regimental staff as an adjutant, for instance; or, if he is a captain, more likely on brigade or division staff. The black trim on the jacket may have been a nod to that duty, but also adds a finishing touch. It shields the fabric from wear as it runs along the upper and front edges of the collar, then down the front and around lower edge of the jacket, but is more purely decorative in running along the base of the collar and in three bands circling each cuff just above each small button.

This is a great looking jacket that would be a wonderful addition to a Civil War cavalry display or uniform collection and, needless to say, would look quite striking with a regulation cavalry officer’s saber as well.  [sr] [ph:m]

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