Known by various nicknames such as the Hardee hat or Jeff Davis hat, the M1858 Army Hat derived from a pattern adopted by the new cavalry regiments of 1855. Dragoons and other branches of service retained the shako until 1858, when this new pattern was adopted army-wide.

Constructed of stiffened black felt, this shows old damage and modern attempts at repair around the periphery of the crown. This is a frequent location of wear and damage since the natural way to pick it up is to grab it around the top edge of the crown. Even some of the most mint examples out there show indentations to the stiff felt in those areas. In this case the folds became tears and a collector chose the expedient of putting a strip of cloth inside and stitching the pieces to it. There does not, however, seem to be much missing fabric. A competent conservator might re-do it and work wonders.

The lower portions of the hat body and the brim are quite good. We see just a couple of edge nicks. The double line of stitching reinforcing the edge is all in place. The interior is good as well. The tall, red morocco sweatband is intact and firmly in place with the original stitching. The original black oilcloth lining/stiffener on the underside of the crown is in place, though with losses around the edge from the pinching of the crown. The gilt embossing, however, is not affected and reads, “U.S. ARMY” in an arc over an American eagle, with “EXTRA MANUFACTURE” below and the number “4” indicating one of the army standard sizes.

The hat has a set of issue stamped-brass crossed sabers on the front, secured inside by replacement leather wedges inserted in the loops. This is surmounted by a regimental numeral “4” and a larger company letter “G,” the latter more ornate and likely commercial rather than issue. A yellow worsted wool cavalry had cord, with tassels intact, encircles the base of the crown, and a black ostrich feather is fixed on the wearer’s left. The right brim has the regulation side plate, stamped brass bearing the arms of the U.S. secured with a piece of leather through a bottom loop. The brim had been turned up on that side, but the upper loop apparently broke off and the collector used a small bit of glue to put it back in place on the reverse, but left the brim in the down position with the sideplate secured at the edge by thong through the lower loop. (The wire loop frequently breaks at the base from bending or pulls out of the solder used to hold it.)

Hardee hats have always been scarce. This one would be worth a little careful conservation. They were a regulation piece of army headgear and merit a place beside the forage or fatigue cap in any uniform display. [sr] [ph:m/l]

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