Close examination shows this cap to have been formerly in the Saathoff collection, as sold by Heritage Auctions in 2014, with some small cosmetic repairs and conservation. The cap itself is an original wartime cap in the well-known “McDowell” pattern popularized by that general, using a tall crown with reeded forage-cap style top, rather than kepi-style inset crown, sides without a horizontal line of stitching running just above the chinstrap buttons, and uses a narrow, downturned crescent visor that is unbound but has a lightly impressed line near the edge. Photos of McDowell himself show he was rather careless in how he wore it. Most officers had better fashion sense and allowed the top to fall forward at a rakish angle, nicely showing off any insignia.

The condition is very good. It shows soiling and some wear spots from actual use, but only scattered small moth nips and a few slightly bigger spots, mostly along the back seam, where a piece of fabric was laid in with reversible, water-soluble glue. The color is good, showing only some slight fading from exposure and field use. The chinstrap, held by two small eagle-I buttons is a correct replacement for display purposes: only a small fragment remained when sold from the Saathoff collection. The interior is good as well. Sweatband and lining are in place. Both show wear from use, but are complete. The lining is black silk, showing wear spots and somewhat brown in places, from rubbing against the head, but with no large tears. The underside of the crown is quilted and is rubbed, but shows enough to the gilt embossed maker’s mark to read “JAs. Y. DAV[IS] but just bits of the letters making up his Washington business address. He was part of Todd & Co., hatters, at 356 Pennsylvania Avenue, until he struck out on his own in 1860, apparently taking over the business since he remained at the same address during the war.

The red third corps badge and brass numeral “1” have not been touched, were likely added by an officer, and are the same ones on the cap when sold by Heritage, who noted that, “a number of caps bearing fake embroidered bullion “USSS” insignia have been imposed upon collectors as Berdan officer’s caps. This ia rare opportunity to buy a real one.” Only two regiments numbered “1” were part of the First Division, Third Army Corps. The First NY was a two-year outfit that mustered out May 1863 and the elongated diamond form of the badge (rather than tilted square) is thought by collectors to date not earlier than Fall 1863, leaving the 1^st U.S. Sharpshooters as the only candidate. Most collectors and students of the war will be very familiar with that famous unit. Though best known for their green uniforms, they wore conventional blue uniforms as well, especially the officers.

Bazelon mentions Davis as a maker of McDowell caps in particular. They must have been among his better sellers. We can see why. This one has great eye-appeal.  [sr][ph:m]

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