This waist length jacket is made of dark blue wool, and is trimmed in red, with both gold and silver bullion tape. It has a tall, standing collar, cut square in the front, 2-inches tall at the front and 2 5/8” inches tall at the back seam. The collar is fitted with a red panel, 3 ½ inches long, on either side, each panel with an upper and lower button at the rear edge, joined by a single line of ½ bullion tape running along the upper, lower, and front edges of the collar in a squared off sideways “U.”  The shoulders have false blue wool wings made of a panel of the same dark blue cloth, sewn down, with a single button near the collar and ½ inch bullion stripe running over the shoulder edge at the arm. The sleeves are narrow and the cuffs are each fastened by two concealed hooks and eyes, and decorated with bullion stripe circling the cuff 1 ½ inches from the opening and bearing a red placket with four buttons and false bullion buttonholes. The front is fastened by nine buttons. The left breast is decorated by a seven-point sequin and coiled gilt thread star outlined by red background base. The interior is lined white fabric, as are the sleeves and collar, and the body is padded. There is a single interior pocket, lined in brown polished cotton in the lower left breast. The lining has some small holes on the wearer’s lower left, some short tears from wear above the left shoulder and a couple of small holes in the collar lining.

The jacket rates good for condition. It has scattered mothing overall, but is solid and presentable. Many of the moth nips on the front of the jacket have been backed with matching cloth, as has a longer strip about 6” long and 1” wide on the inside of the wearer’s right forearm and much smaller spots breast and lapel. Some small wear spots and nips have not been touched, but they are not obtrusive, and there is some wear and mothing along the inside of the lapel and near the waist that does not show when the coat is mounted on a form or laid out for display. One fingernail size spot partially underneath a lower point of the star, exposes the light colored interlining of the jacket- it was likely difficult to insert a matching piece of cloth there, but we think it could be done.

All buttons are brass flat coin style with plain faces: 4 on the collar, 2 on the shoulders, 8 on the cuffs, and 9 down the front. A few show some thin bright gilt; most are a medium brass tone. The bullion tape seems to have all been gold, though that on the shoulders shows slightly silver- most likely simple oxidation. The buttons on the front show old resewing and are loose enough to show a mix of backmarks: “Imperial Orange Gilt” and “Grant & Seaver / Boston / Treble Gilt.” The collar buttons are 5/8 inch. The others are ¾ inch. We find Grant and Seaver as “Importers and Dealers in European and American Goods” as early as 1827. There is a reference to them suffering a business failure in 1837, but they may well have lasted longer than that. We would tentatively date the coat to the 1830s or 1840s by the style. It certainly presents a natty appearance, fitting for the “elegant elite” of the volunteer militia, whose uniformed companies vied with one another in the elegance of their privately purchased dress and equipment as well as their proficiency in drill and on parade. The use of a short jacket and (false) wings on the shoulders rather than a straight shoulder strap suggests the unit may have fancied itself light infantry. In any case, this is very colorful jacket that would make a nice addition to a collection of pre-Civil War American volunteer militia uniforms and equipment. It is nice combination of history and eye-appeal.  [sr] [ph:L]

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