This is a regulation Civil War officer’s coat for a captain doing some kind of staff duty. Since most officers serving on regimental staffs ranked as first lieutenants, this officer likely saw service at the brigade or higher level, as a member of a general or personal staff, an officer who stood an equally good chance of being shot off his horse as an aide-de-camp or one of the other officers accompanying brigade, division, corps and army commanders, often under fire and tasked with carrying orders to front line units.

The coat is regulation and of wartime configuration, the body constructed of dark blue wool satinette with black silk lining and white cloth sleeve linings, with the standard nine-button single breasted front proper for lieutenants and captains, along with the regulation three buttons on each cuff, and four more on the rear waist and skirt. The shoulder straps are in place and regulation, showing embroidered bullion borders and rank bars on a black ground, the correct branch of service color for staff. The gold bullion has oxidized toward a muted silver, but the jaceron wire borders still show much gilt color.

Officers had to purchase their own uniforms, weapons, and gear. This shows two nice, personalized touches. The collar has been made in a roll-over fashion and faced with an elegant black velvet and the interior has been fitted with a fabric waist belt and brass clasp to help the officer keep a trim waist line, emphasize the chest, and present a natty appearance. The interior is quilted in the upper body at the sides and chest, a standard feature of officer coats, and fitted with a pocket in the left inside breast. Both exterior and interior are mint. The buttons have very nice gilt finish remaining and are the standard three-piece buttons for General Staff featuring a raised eagle at center, in a ring of stars.

Underneath the collar is a nicely embroidered maker’s label. These are not common, but indicate a higher end clothier: Brooks Brothers of New York, for instance, used them. In this case the label reads: “Manufactured by / E. Hughes. / Washington D.C.” Evan Hughes is listed as a merchant tailor in Washington in the 1860 census and according to Bazelon was in business from at least 1851 to 1874. He dealt in gentleman’s furnishings of all kinds, but specifically advertised military and naval goods. Bazelon notes that he received samples from the Office of the Quartermaster General for making officers’ coats as early as July 1851, so he was well established.

This is a great looking coat in superior condition. It would look wonderful in a uniform collection and would look especially striking with a sash, belt and an 1850 Staff and Field Sword or the 1860 Staff sword.   [sr] [ph:m]

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