This is a good condition original Civil War Union army regulation Model 1858 Forage Cap showing some wear and some careful, minor repairs. This pattern descended from the army shako of the 1850s, which lost its shape from use and exposure to the elements, and morphed into the designated “fatigue” cap in 1858 with the brimmed (“Hardee” or “Jeff Davis”) serving for dress, although that distinction was often lost in practice. Bearing some resemblance to the nattier kepi with an inset crown, they received differing reviews from soldiers, but probably every Union soldier was issued one at some point and most would have gone through several. This the “Type-II” configuration in collectors’ terminology, using a larger crown and flatter visor than the “Type-I,” and still bears a paper maker’s label on the underside of the crown with some losses to the bottom and edge, but clearly reading, “SIZE / No. 2 / 6 7/8 / U.S. ARMY / L. J. & I. P.” indicating manufacture by the prolific firm of L.J. & I. Phillips.

The cap is complete, with visor, lining and sweatband in place and secure. The chinstrap is correct, but is a modern replacement, though the eagle side buttons are original. The fabric is solid and the dark blue color is strong. A few very small, pencil point moth nips have been closed up with a dark blue thread, but don’t stand out and are tough to spot. We can find four small spots around the perimeter of the top, indicating the seam with the side panel may have opened and been closed, five or six small moth nips on the right rear, and one 1/2” tear, with no fabric missing, on the lower left rear about 1 ½” from the lower edge. There is just a little dirt and soiling on the lower back edge. The interior is good, showing wear and dark sweat staining to the goatskin sweatband, but which is complete and in place. The polished cotton lining is in place, and mostly there, but showing a hole and some shredding at the wearer’s upper right rear and left center rear, with some stitching indicating the fabric was pulled over to close it up. There is some difference in shading of the panels of the lining, but this is not unusual in the use of fabric from different bolts of cloth. The lining on the underside of the top is there and the maker’s label shows some losses to the bottom and left edge, but the text is intact.

Lewis J. and Isaac Phillips were the sons of J.D. Phillips, who emigrated from England to the U.S. in 1833 and was in the fur business. They jumped into the military cap business with both feet in 1861, securing large U.S. contracts, as well as selling to state and private groups and subcontracting for caps to others, like Murphy and Childs, who had obtained their own contracts. Their totals for caps in U.S. contracts ran to 35,000 in 1861, 175,000 in 1862, 251,000 in 1863, 330,200 in 1864, and 50,000 in 1865.

This cap saw some use, but displays very well and the maker’s label is a bonus. If you are looking for a typical Civil War Union army forage cap it will likely be one by L.J. & I. Phillips.  [sr][ph:L]

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