The Civil War artifact presented is an original example of a complete, Pattern 1858, Federal enlisted infantryman’s hat. Commonly referred to as the “Hardee Hat”, the government-issue cover was once part of the well-known Stamatelos Collection of Massachusetts.

Though somewhat bulky, this specimen of U.S. Army head gear is in minty condition overall and still retains its original blue hat cord, and black ostrich plume, in addition to all of its brass insignia. As called for in War Department General Orders dated March 1858, the hat is constructed of black fur or wool felt material that was artificially stiffened with shellac. Hat features a crown approximately 6½” high. Wrapped around the base of the crown is a 3/8” wide strip of original black ribbon that itself is wrapped with an original infantry hat cord of two thick strands of 3/8” diameter, blue worsted terminating in two-inch long tassels with acorns. Ribbon, cords, and tassels are both in excellent condition. Hat has a very slight convex curve, almost flat, across the crown top which measures 6 1/2” long x 6 1/8” wide. Brim is 3” wide and features two rows of fine, black silk sewn along the brim outer edge as called for in enlisted models. There are two spots/stains located directly under the hat cord tassels. Otherwise, the black felt is in very good condition.

Brim is pinned up on the hat’s left side with a large, sheet brass, spread-winged eagle device hat insignia, a.k.a. the Jeff Davis hat pin. The front face of crown exhibits the brass infantry “hunting horn” insignia with a ¾” high brass number “1” situated within the center loop of the horn. Above these is a 1” high letter “E”. All brass furniture has acquired a mellow bronze patina. And all of the brass “decorations” are attached through the felt and are held in place by small leather thongs or simply by having the loops/wires bend over. The right side of the crown has a single, fine condition, black ostrich plume used a decorative trimming. Plume is anchored at the front of the black ribbon and tucked near the band. Several stitches of thread hold the upper portion of the plume in place.

The crown interior is not lined but features a 3” high, thin Moroccan leather sweatband still strong and tightly stitched to the brim. Glued to the interior top of the crown is a circular piece of thin, black oilcloth decorated with a gold-stamped maker’s mark. “U.S. ARMY HAT / MANUFACTURED BY / [???] / BETWEEN / [????]” that sits below a stamped, spread-winged eagle motif. Markings are faded and some line hard to read.

Federal Army ‘Hardee hats’ such as this 1858 pattern infantry specimen are scarce today in any condition. Here is a complete and minty Federal Army piece of Civil War headgear to highlight any military collection. [jet]

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